I was invited to two weddings in June, which were scheduled
on the same day: One in the morning (one bride), one in the afternoon (two
brides – sisters, in fact. Not à la Big
Love, sillies – each got one spouse all for herself). In Indonesia, there are wedding seasons
as well as particularly auspicious days to get hitched and such. So, significant life
events tend to occur one on top of another, including circumcision
parties. (Stay tuned – next post.)
A.M.: Wedding, the first.
This one actually started the night before, with a civil
ceremony at the bride’s home, i.e., her parents’ house. (Around here, folks usually live with
parental units until marriage, and sometimes even after acquiring the ol' ball and chain,
depending on the couple’s finances.)
The civil ceremony (read, civil Muslim ceremony) was officiated by a government official. Prayers were prayed,
papers were signed, and the father of the bride gave a moving speech (in high
level Javanese [kromo inggil] and Arabic) that left no dry eye in and outside
the house.
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Let's get this party started |
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Lights, camera, signatures |
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Pak brings the house down |
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Gift baskets and standing room only audience |
The next morning, everyone got make-up’d nice and cakey and
drove in a car caravan to the venue. Awesome traditional outfits, accessories, and hair abounded, as did an insane amount of
food, jazzy music, and throngs upon throngs of guests. I’d say nearly three thousand people came through, a conservative
estimate.
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Here comes the bride |
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How bad-ass are those swords!? Tell me! |
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This was the singer-prayer person. He is blind. |
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The betrothed |
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The in-laws (I was a guest of the bride's family) |
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Paying respects |
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We are fa-mi-ly |
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My counterpart and his middle daughter |
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My counterpart's lovely spouse and two of their three daughters. |
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This is the Bistek. Um, it was not a steak as such. But I think made of beef nonetheless. |
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Ponorogo is famous in Indonesia for and very proud of its Sate Ayam (chicken satay). |
P.M.: Wedding, the second.
As soon as the last guest left from the a.m. wedding, I
cycled home, shed my gebaya and the big Javanese fake bun thing hair piece,
quickly wrapped a scarf on my head, and went to my neighbor’s house for wedding
number two. As you’ll see below, this
one was very, very different from the a.m. wedding.
This one also started the day before, with rewang (RAY-wahng).
When someone in your ‘hood gets married, all
lady family members and immediate neighbors come over to help prepare for the
big day.
So the day before the wedding,
my host mother and I went next door to help chop some stuff for food for
the wedding and food to distribute to friends and family, because people here are generous and communal like that.
(I rewanged for the a.m. wedding, too, but
didn’t bring my camera, whoops.)
This
is a somewhat functional but predominantly social activity, as some neighbors
will just drop in for half an hour to put in face-time, de-seed a handful of
chilis, and call it a day.
And, brides-to-be usually hire a fleet of cooks anyway, so all the food does eventually get made. I stayed for
a goodly while, until they busted out the pineapples, whereupon me and my
allergic self could only silently look on and salivate at the pounds of lovely, juicy fruit.
But back to the big day.
I hope the photos will do the talking, but I should say that this
wedding was very traditional and looked more like a “normal” wedding in my
town, meaning, very Javanese and very Muslim.
There was no milling about, the ceremony was long, and food was served
to the guests halfway through the ceremony.
So the second half was rather pleasant actually, like watching a show while
munching on bakso (meatball soup, like Vietnamese Pho) and soto ayam (chicken stew, but thinner, like a yellow curry soup).
In any
event, the whole thing unfolded itself in this way:
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Guests being seated. |
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Here come the brides. |
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Here comes Groom No. 1. |
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Here is Bride No. 1. Respectfully, the elder sister got to go first. |
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They met by this thing. |
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He crushes the egg (on his side), and she pours/washes his feet with the liquid (on her side). |
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Then Father of the Bride pours libations. |
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And then Father of the Bride wraps them up and takes them to the stage in a cozy snuggle train. |
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Flower girls |
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Bride, the younger. |
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And then comes Groom No. 2. |
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